Best way to remove old ceramic tile from bathroom floor

I tackled this in my own bathroom last year and learned the hard way that patience is everything. The tile itself isn't the problem - it's the mortar underneath that fights back. You'll want a good cold chisel (or a flat pry bar works too) and a small sledgehammer or club hammer, safety glasses, and dust masks because ceramic dust gets everywhere. Start in a corner where you can get the chisel underneath, tap it gently to create a gap, then work your way across. Don't swing hard at first - let the tool do the work. Most tiles will pop off once you get momentum going, but some will shatter, which honestly is fine and sometimes faster.

The real battle is the thinset mortar left behind. A rotary tool with a grinding bit makes quick work of it, or you can go old school with a wider chisel and just scrape methodically. Wear that mask seriously - ceramic and mortar dust aren't pleasant to breathe in, and you'll find it settling on every surface if you're not careful. If you're renting or want to avoid the mess, there are dust containment setups you can rig up with plastic sheeting, but for a DIY bathroom job, opening windows and working methodically beats fancy setups.

Once the floor is bare, vacuum thoroughly before checking that the subfloor is level and solid. If there are soft spots, you've found a bigger problem that needs addressing before new tile goes down. The whole process takes longer than you'd think, but it's straightforward work - just tedious and dusty.

The thing people underestimate is water damage underneath the tile. Before you start swinging anything, run a moisture meter or even just press on the subfloor around the edges - if it's soft or spongy, you've got rot that needs addressing before you can even think about new tile. I've seen folks rip out tile only to realize the plywood is shot and the whole floor needs replacement, which turns a weekend job into a nightmare.

Start by scoring the grout lines with a grout saw or angle grinder to separate the tiles from each other. Once they're isolated, a cold chisel and hammer work fine if you're patient, or rent that pneumatic tool the other answer mentioned - both approaches get the job done. The key difference is sweat versus time. Work in sections, keep the chisel flat to avoid digging into the subfloor, and go slowly at the edges where your walls meet the tile.

Here's what gets missed though: old adhesive and mortar can hide pockets of moisture or mold, especially around the toilet base or where the floor meets the wall. After you've pulled everything up, scrape the subfloor clean and let it dry completely - sometimes a day or two - before you even think about inspecting it properly. If you're seeing black spots or that musty smell, you'll need to treat it before laying new tile, or you're just covering up a problem that'll come back worse.