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Definitely works! as others pointed out, sealing is key - I usually go with a gloss coat since the powders stick way better to that than bare plastic. The main thing I've learned is to be super light-handed with application, like use a barely-damp brush or a soft sponge, because it's easy to go overboard and end up with muddy-looking streaks instead of realistic weathering 😅 After you're happy with how it looks, hit it with a matte varnish to lock everything in place so the powders don't shift around or rub off.
Absolutely, I use weathering powders on my plastic models all the time. Just seal everything first with a gloss or matte coat depending on what look you're going for, then apply the powders with a soft brush and fix them with a light spray of matte varnish so they don't smudge off. I actually got into model building during a rainy stretch a few years back when the mushroom season was slow, and it's surprisingly similar to other detail work once you get the technique down. The key is going light with the powder application since you can always add more but it's tough to remove if you overdo it.
like others said, yeah you can definitely use weathering powders on plastic. I've been doing it for years on my scale models and it works great. The key thing is getting a proper base coat down first - that gloss or matte seal is crucial because it gives the powders something to grip onto and keeps them from just sliding around or settling unevenly. I typically spray a gloss coat if I'm going for a grimy, oily look, and matte if I want something more subtle and dusty.
Once your seal coat is dry, application is pretty straightforward. I use soft brushes or even makeup brushes for this - actually my photography background helps here since I'm already comfortable with precision detail work and lighting. You can either dry brush the powders on with a damp brush for more control, or use a dry brush for a lighter application. The powders stick to the sealer nicely without needing any adhesive. Just work in thin layers because it's way easier to add more than to remove it if you overdo things. I'll usually dust around panel lines, landing gear, exhaust areas, anywhere that would logically collect grime.
One thing to watch out for - don't use the powders directly over bare plastic without that seal coat. They won't adhere properly and you'll end up with a mess that wipes off. Also, once you're happy with the weathering, seal the whole thing again with a matte coat to lock everything in place. This protects the powders and keeps them from shifting around if you handle the model. After nine years of doing this, I can tell you the results look way more realistic than trying to hand-paint all those weathering effects.
I've done it on a bunch of my model planes. The key thing I learned the hard way was that you really need that sealer coat first or the powders won't stick properly and you'll just get dust everywhere, which I found out when I made a mess all over my desk while my cat knocked over my supplies. Once you've got a good base coat down though, the weathering powders blend so much more naturally than paint for that worn look, especially on aircraft where you want those subtle dirt streaks and panel line shadows.
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