How do I deadhead roses to get more blooms?

DR Driver GB 📗 Student 👁 40 ⚑ Report Flower Garden

I've got a climbing rose that bloomed like crazy in June but now it's just sitting there with spent flowers. I keep hearing deadheading helps them flower again, but I'm not sure if I'm cutting in the right spot or if I'm supposed to do it differently for different types of roses.

2 answers

★ Best answer

Deadheading removes the plant's signal to stop producing flowers, so yeah, it genuinely does work for most roses. The key is cutting just below the spent bloom, right above a leaf node (where leaves branch out from the stem). You want to cut at a 45-degree angle, about a quarter-inch above that node. For climbing roses specifically, you're actually in a tricky spot because they tend to flower once per season on old wood, so deadheading won't trigger the same repeat-blooming cycle you'd get from a hybrid tea or floribunda rose. That said, removing dead flowers still prevents the plant from wasting energy on seed production, and you might get sporadic secondary blooms later in the season.

The difference between rose types matters more than people realize. Repeat bloomers (like hybrid teas or many shrub roses) will keep pushing out new flower clusters if you deadhead consistently through the growing season. Climbing roses and old-garden varieties often have just one big flush, so deadheading helps but won't magically turn them into constant bloomers. For your climbing rose, I'd suggest deadheading the spent flowers now, but don't expect a June-level rebloom in August or September. What you might get instead is cleaner-looking growth and maybe a few bonus flowers in late summer if you're lucky. Just make sure you're not cutting too far down the stem - stay close to that leaf node, otherwise you'll leave dead stubs that look messy and can invite disease.

For climbing roses specifically, you want to cut about a quarter-inch above an outward-facing leaf node - that's where new growth will push out and give you that fuller shape instead of leggy canes. On climbers, this matters even more than on bushes because they're already fighting against their natural tendency to only flower at the tips. Cut at a slight angle away from the bud so water runs off, and use clean shears (alcohol wipe between cuts if you're doing a lot).

The thing most people skip with climbers is that you should deadhead lower down the cane, not just snipping the flower head itself. Go back 6-12 inches depending on how much of the plant you want to encourage, and you'll get branching further down the stem. That's what actually triggers the multiple flushes of blooms instead of just one stubborn wave in June.

One practical trick: if your climbing rose is really done for the season and deadheading isn't sparking much new growth, don't stress too hard. Some climbers genuinely have one main bloom cycle and that's just their rhythm. You might see sporadic flowers through fall if you keep at it, but the big show is usually spring or early summer for most varieties. Save the aggressive deadheading energy for your repeat bloomers - those'll reward you for it through August and into fall.

Your answer

Log into answer.