I've been trying to sew some jersey and spandex blend fabric for a t-shirt project, but my regular machine keeps breaking the thread and the seams look messy. I don't have a serger and can't really afford one right now. What techniques or settings should I be using to get better results?
Switch to a ballpoint or stretch needle (they're designed to slip between fibers instead of piercing them) and use a narrow zigzag stitch rather than a straight stitch - this gives the seam flexibility so it doesn't snap when the fabric stretches. Also dial down your tension a bit and make sure you're not pulling the fabric through; just guide it gently and let the feed dogs do the work.
The needle and stitch advice is spot on, but don't overlook what you're feeding into the machine - I learned this the hard way when my first jersey shirt turned into a wavy mess. Slow down your sewing speed and use a lighter presser foot pressure if your machine lets you adjust it, because stretchy fabrics don't need to be muscled through. Even better, try sewing with the fabric slightly stretched between your hands (gently, no yanking), and some people swear by a walking foot or even a simple feed foot if you have one lying around, since it helps the top and bottom layers move at the same pace instead of one creeping ahead of the other.
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