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It might not be broken at all - the real culprit is usually water entering faster than the pump can push it out. Check your foundation and basement walls carefully for new cracks, and look around the sump pit itself for any leaks from pipes or seepage you haven't noticed before. If the pit is genuinely staying full or refilling quickly even after the pump runs, that's your answer. A 2015 pump should still have plenty of life left unless it's actually damaged, so I'd investigate the water source first rather than jumping to replacement.

A constantly running pump usually means water is getting in faster than it can drain out, so check for a cracked foundation, new cracks in the walls, or a leaking pipe near the sump pit before assuming the pump itself is dead. You can also pull the float switch up manually to see if the pump shuts off - if it does, the float might be stuck or waterlogged and need replacing, which is cheap and easy. If the pump still runs nonstop even with the float held up, or if it's struggling to keep water down, then yeah, it's probably worn out and worth replacing, especially at that age. Either way, grab a plumber to rule out the groundwater issue first, because a new pump won't help if water's pouring in from somewhere else.

Before you assume it's broken, check if your sump pit is actually filling up faster than the pump can handle - sometimes people don't realize a new crack in the foundation or a shift in the soil around their house changes how water flows into the basement. The one thing to watch for is a stuck float switch, which can make the pump run nonstop even without extra water, so try lifting the float arm by hand to see if the pump shuts off. If it does, you might just need to clean or replace that switch rather than the whole unit. Does the pit actually have water in it when the pump is running, or does it seem to drain completely?

The non-stop running is almost never the pump itself failing - it's a symptom of something else happening in your basement. That said, there's one thing the other answers didn't emphasize enough: check your float switch first. If it's stuck or the mechanism is jammed, the pump won't shut off even when the water level drops. Give it a gentle wiggle and make sure it moves freely. Sometimes debris or mineral buildup causes this, and it's a quick fix.

After that, yeah, look at what's bringing water in. New cracks in your foundation or walls, gaps where pipes enter, a blocked or failing floor drain, even a sump pit that's too small for your current water table - any of these could be the real problem. But here's the thing: if you haven't had rain and the pump's still hammering, you might also have a plumbing leak somewhere above the basement floor. Check under sinks, around your water heater, anywhere there's a supply line. A slow leak can pump out a ton of water over days without you noticing it.

Before spending money on a replacement pump, pull the cover off the pit if you can and inspect it. Is the water level actually rising? How dirty is the water - clear or full of sediment? That tells you a lot about whether you're dealing with groundwater, a broken pipe, or a foundation issue. What does the pit look like when the pump's running versus when it shuts off?

Your check valve might be stuck open or leaking - that's the one thing nobody's mentioning that causes exactly this symptom. If water's draining back into the pit between cycles instead of staying out, the pump runs nonstop trying to keep up. Pop the lid and see if water's trickling backward into the pit when the pump shuts off; if it is, that valve needs replacing before you worry about anything else.

Have you checked the discharge line outside to make sure it's not frozen or clogged? Everyone's nailing the foundation/crack angle, but a blocked or frozen discharge pipe will trick the pump into running nonstop because water backs up into the pit even though it's technically "draining." Since it's been running for a week straight, ice buildup or debris getting sucked into the line is worth ruling out first - way cheaper than replacing the whole unit.

Your float switch might be stuck or malfunctioning, which is worth checking before you tear into the foundation. If the switch gets jammed in the "off" position, the pump thinks the pit is always full and just keeps running. Lift the float arm gently and see if it moves freely - debris or mineral buildup can lock it up. That said, the other answers are right that constant running usually points to water coming in faster than it drains, so check for foundation cracks and new seepage too, but don't skip the float switch since it's the easiest and cheapest thing to fix first.

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