Blossom end rot is fundamentally a calcium transport problem, but here's the thing people often miss: adding lime to your soil doesn't guarantee the calcium gets where it needs to go. The real culprit is inconsistent watering. When your soil dries out between waterings, the plant can't move calcium up through the vascular system to the developing fruit - so even if calcium is technically in the soil, the tomato doesn't get it. Then when you water again, it's too late for that fruit. You need to keep the soil moisture consistent, not just "regular."
The lime you added last year might actually take a while to become available to plants, so don't assume it failed yet. But here's what I'd focus on instead: mulch heavily around your tomatoes to regulate soil moisture and keep it from drying out between waterings. Aim for steady, even moisture throughout the growing season - aim for soil that feels like a wrung-out sponge. In a raised bed, this is usually easier to control than in-ground, so you've got an advantage there.
Also reconsider rotating out of that bed or at least refreshing the soil. After three seasons of the same crop, your micronutrients and soil structure have probably taken a hit, and that affects how efficiently the plant can absorb anything, calcium included. Even if blossom end rot is the visible problem, the underlying soil health might be working against you too.