Don't just assume it's air and start bleeding every radiator - sometimes cold spots point to a blockage instead, which bleeding won't fix. The difference matters because a blocked radiator needs a power flush or chemical treatment, not just a bleed valve.
That said, if it's only the top that's cold and the bottom half heats up normally, air is the most likely culprit. The trapped air rises and settles at the highest point, preventing hot water from filling that space. You can test this pretty easily: turn off your heating, let it cool completely, then switch it back on and feel the radiator again within a few minutes. If the cold patch is still there in exactly the same spot, it's probably air. If the cold area moves around or changes, you might be dealing with a sludge blockage or water flow issue instead.
To bleed it, you'll need a radiator key (dead cheap, a few quid). Turn it slowly at the bleed valve (usually at the top corner) until water starts coming out - just a dribble, you're not draining the radiator. Have a cloth ready because it'll spray. Once water flows without air hissing out, close it back up. If you've got multiple radiators with cold spots, bleed them one by one, starting with the ones furthest from your boiler. If bleeding doesn't solve it after a week or so, that's when you'd want to call someone in to check for a real blockage.