How do I winterize my country property for extended vacancy?

Extended vacancy isn't always the best path for a country property - you'll often lose money on utilities and risk more damage than you'd prevent - but if you're committed to it, there's a solid process. Start with the water system: shut off the main valve, drain all the lines by opening every faucet and low points, and flush toilets to empty the tanks. Add antifreeze (the RV-safe kind, not automotive) to drains, toilet bowls, and the P-traps under sinks to keep them from freezing and cracking. Have the heating system serviced and set to a frost-protection temperature - usually 50 - 55°F - so pipes don't burst even when you're gone. This is crucial and worth hiring someone to verify if you're not confident.

For the rest of the house, close interior doors to unused rooms and let heat concentrate where it matters. Shut off water to outdoor spigots at the supply line and drain them. Check your roof and gutters beforehand; ice dams and leaks will destroy insulation and drywall in a vacant house faster than you'd expect. Inspect windows and doors for gaps, and weatherstrip anything loose. Consider leaving a few interior lights on timers so the house doesn't look abandoned (theft risk), and ask a neighbor to check on things occasionally or hire a property caretaker.

Before leaving, clear gutters, trim tree branches away from the roof, and make sure your sump pump or drainage system won't fail if heavy snow melts. Document the property with photos and video, and leave your contact info with a trusted local person. If you're gone more than a few months, ask your insurance company if they need notification - some policies have occupancy clauses that matter for vacant properties.