8 answers
Flaking is normal, but you don't have to suffer through it either. What I've noticed is that people sometimes focus only on moisturizing *after* the retinoid, when really the step before is key. If your skin is very dry to begin with, retinoids are going to wreak havoc. I started using a good moisturizer or hyaluronic acid serum before applying the retinoid (I wait for my skin to dry, apply the moisturizer, wait another minute) and the difference was huge. It cuts down irritation quite a bit.
Also consider the frequency and concentration. You don't have to use it every night if you're just starting out. Once or twice a week is enough for your skin to adapt without turning into a total peeling machine. Then you can gradually increase it. And if you're using a really strong retinoid, obviously the peeling is going to be more intense. There are milder versions that work well without leaving your face like sandpaper.
The important thing is that the flaking is without itching or extreme redness. If it's also burning or really irritated, maybe you need to lower the dose or skip a few days. Your skin barrier needs time to adjust, but that doesn't mean you have to go around flaking for the whole month.
It's completely normal, especially if you've just started or you're using high concentrations. Retinoids speed up cell turnover, so your skin flakes while it adapts. That doesn't mean something's wrong - it's actually a sign they're working. The thing is, most people experience it as "ugh, I'm peeling everywhere" and think they need to stop, but really the process lasts a couple of weeks or months depending on how used to it your skin is.
What you can do to make it more bearable: lower the frequency if you're going hard (use retinoids every two or three nights instead of daily), make sure you hydrate well with a good serum or cream afterwards, and during the day use sunscreen without fail because your skin is more sensitive. Some people also have luck using the "retinol sandwich" technique where you apply the retinoid between two layers of moisturizer, so it absorbs more slowly and irritation is less.
If it's been months and it's still brutal, or you're itching a lot or it's getting too red, then yeah consider switching to a lower concentration or checking with someone. But the flaking itself is just the normal process with this kind of product.
Same thing happened to me when I started, the peeling is part of the deal while your skin adjusts, but what really helps is using a good moisturizer right after applying the retinoid (wait for it to dry first) because it seals in hydration and reduces that annoying flaking you see on your face during the day.
Don't make the mistake of stopping the retinoid thinking something's wrong. Peeling is how your skin gets rid of dead cells, so technically it's working. What you actually need to do is adjust how you're using it, not abandon it.
The real issue is that you're probably using too much or too often for your skin's tolerance level right now. If you just started with retinoids, the normal thing is to drop down to using it two or three times a week instead of daily, even if the product says you can use it every day. Your skin barrier needs time to get used to it gradually. Also check that you're not mixing it with other strong actives (acids, concentrated vitamin C) the same night, because that speeds up irritation.
Hydrating after you apply the retinoid is pretty much mandatory, and by "hydrating" I mean a good moisturizer for real, not just water. If the peeling is excessive, you can take a day or two off in between. Usually in two or three weeks your skin adapts and the peeling drops off quite a bit; if after a month it's still just as strong, maybe the product or the concentration isn't right for you.
What nobody really talks about is that how much your skin peels also depends on when you apply the retinoid after washing your face. If your skin is still a bit damp, the retinoid penetrates more intensely and you'll peel more; if you wait for it to dry completely, the effect is less intense. So you can play around with that while your skin adjusts, without needing to reduce the dose or anything.
When I started using retinoids, the peeling was brutal, but what nobody told me is that you have to let your skin dry completely after washing before applying it - if you apply it to damp skin it speeds up irritation a lot and the peeling becomes unbearable! Use less than you think you need and build up gradually, because sometimes people try to go too fast.
If the peeling is driving you crazy, try cutting back on how often you use it before you reduce the strength - sometimes going from using the retinoid every day to three or four times a week makes all the difference without losing the benefits. What nobody mentions is letting your skin dry completely after washing (wait a few minutes) before applying the retinoid, because putting it on damp skin really ramps up the irritation and therefore the flaking.
The flaking is part of the process, but what often gets overlooked is how important it is to increase the frequency really gradually. If you started using the retinoid every day from day one, obviously your skin is going to react strongly. Most people benefit way more by starting with once or twice a week and bumping it up every two weeks, depending on how your skin looks.
It also matters that you don't try to "compensate" for the flaking by exfoliating. I get that you want to pick off those flakes, but while the retinoids are doing their thing you're just irritating it more. The best move is to let your skin flake on its own, keep it hydrated with something gentle, and wait for it to adjust. Once your barrier is more adapted (can take weeks), the flaking goes down quite a bit 🌱
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