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A carbide or tungsten carbide bit is what you really need. Concrete is way harder than regular masonry, so a regular steel bit won't cut it - it'll wear out fast and do a poor job. Carbide has a much more resistant tip and can handle the heat generated by friction. If the cabinets are heavy, you're gonna want clean and secure holes, so it's not worth skimping on this.

Your regular drill can work, yeah, but it depends on the brand and power. Ideally you want one with at least 600-700W and that has an impact function (that mode that does the vibration, really different from drilling wood). If your drill doesn't have impact mode, it's more of a pain, but you can still do it - it'll just take longer and you'll get tired. An impact drill changes everything and makes it way faster, especially if you're gonna drill a bunch of holes.

When you're using it, don't force the bit too hard against the concrete - let the machine do the work with steady, firm pressure. You're gonna get a ton of concrete dust, so wear safety glasses. After you drill the hole, you put a nylon or PVC anchor in that's the right size for the bit, and then a screw to hang the cabinet. Make sure you measure the depth right so you can set the anchor properly.

The secret here is really choosing the right drill bit for the material. If the wall is actual concrete (not masonry), a regular steel drill bit won't hold up - it'll wear out in a flash and you'll be worse off than when you started. You need a drill bit with a carbide or tungsten carbide tip, which is way more durable. The good news is your regular drill probably does the job, as long as it has enough power - but here's the important bit: concrete is too dense for a "wimpy" drill, so you're better off with an impact drill or one that has a percussion function. If you've got a conventional rotary drill, it can work, but it'll take forever and it's exhausting.

As for a hand auger, honestly you only really need one if it's heavy-duty work or really hard concrete (industrial-grade stuff). For kitchen cabinets, an impact drill with a carbide bit is enough. The trick is using the right speed - concrete prefers lower rotations than masonry, so don't rev it up unnecessarily. Start at reduced speed, let the bit do the work, and don't force it - then put in the right anchors (like Fischer or Hilti) and you can hang heavy stuff without any problems.

I've already tried fastening heavy things to concrete, and what really makes a difference is low speed on the drill - a carbide bit heats up like crazy if you use high RPMs and gets ruined. Those kinds of cabinets need decent expansion anchors, it's not just about picking the right bit; use M8 or M10 anchors depending on the weight, because a wrong bit damages the bit, but a weak anchor damages the cabinets (and potentially whoever's standing underneath). Your regular drill is fine, you just need patience and let the bit do the work without forcing it - a hammer drill is overkill for this.

To be honest, a regular drill with a carbide bit does work, but what really makes the difference is using an impact drill (that little hammer thing) - it totally changes the game when you're drilling concrete, because the impact makes the bit work way better than pure rotation alone. If you don't have one, just rent one for a day - it's way cheaper than trashing your regular drill by forcing it.

What people are forgetting to mention is that not every "normal" drill can actually make a hole in concrete - it depends a lot on the power. A standard 500-600W drill can do it, yeah, but it's going to be slow and exhausting - you're going to need patience and can't force it. Now, an impact drill (the one with the actual percussion mechanism) makes a huge difference, because it's not just rotation, it's impact that breaks the material. If you've got an impact drill at home, go for it with a carbide bit and low speed.

Now, if it's purely rotary drill, you can still do it, but it's going to take more time. Use a tungsten carbide or carbide bit (the previous answers got that right), speed between 400-600 rpm, and put a little water on the bit every now and then to cool it down - that helps the bit last longer. Mark where you're going to make the hole beforehand, because concrete resists a lot and the bit can slip at the start.

For a really heavy cabinet, you're probably going to use expansion anchors or chemical anchors along with alloy screws. The hole needs to be straight for that to work. If the wall is really thick or really hard (reinforced concrete is a pain), it might be worth calling someone who has a drill press or even a proper brace, but for most cases an impact drill does the job.

When I hung some cabinets in my kitchen a while back, the real difference wasn't just the carbide drill bit - it was actually having an impact drill, that jackhammer thing everyone recommends. A regular drill with a carbide bit does work, but it takes forever and heats up like crazy, whereas an impact drill gets the hole open in seconds. If you don't have one, buying or renting one for a few euros is way worth it more than spending half an hour wrestling with concrete using a regular drill - and then you still need quality anchors so the cabinets stay properly secured.

Keep the rotation low, otherwise the carbide bit heats up like crazy and gets damaged in no time. It's true you need a carbide (widia) bit and not regular steel, but what most people don't mention is that a normal drill, even with impact, sometimes doesn't have enough power if the concrete is really dense - in those cases it's absolutely worth renting a rotary hammer for a few euros, it'll save you hours of frustration. But if the wall isn't too thick, a normal drill with carbide and low rotation (max around 800 rpm or so) usually does the job, especially if you mark the spot first with a nail so the bit doesn't slip.

A regular drill with a carbide bit works, but if the cabinets are really heavy, it's worth renting a hammer drill for a day - it makes all the difference in concrete and you won't wear out the bit as fast. Without the hammer function, you'll have to use a lot of force and patience, and there's a bigger risk of damaging the tool.

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