I've been building scale model cars for a while now and I'm having trouble getting the pieces to stay properly glued together. I tried regular white glue but it looks awful and takes forever to dry. Is there something better that you all use for this kind of work?
Instant glue works, but if you want to avoid it looking horrible you need to be really careful with how you apply it. The best option depends on the type of piece. For actual model plastic, it's worth using specific plastic cement (like Tamiya or similar), which slightly dissolves the surfaces and creates a chemical bond that's way stronger than cyanoacrylate. Cyanoacrylate is fine for small things or details, but it tends to leave visible marks and isn't ideal when you want the work to look clean on larger pieces.
What I'd do is get model plastic cement from a hobby shop or online, apply it with a toothpick or fine brush to control the amount, and then hold the pieces together with masking tape while it dries. Let it dry for the time the package says, don't try to rush it. If you use cyanoacrylate anyway, apply really tiny drops, wait a few seconds for it to sink in a bit, and then press. The difference is in not using too much glue, because that's what produces that ugly white mark you see.
One tip I'll give you: before gluing large pieces together, test the cement you choose on a couple of leftover plastic bits from the same kit to see how it looks when it's dry. That way you know what to expect and you won't ruin your model.
Are the cars you're building those Revell kits or something similar? For plastic models, cyanoacrylate glue (known as instant glue or super glue) is what works - it dries in seconds and the pieces end up really solid. Just watch your fingers though, because it bonds whatever it touches instantly. There's also plastic cement made specifically for models that melts the pieces a bit and fuses them together, which ends up stronger than cyanoacrylate, but it takes longer to dry so you need more patience or you have to hold the pieces firmly in place.
If you've been doing this for a while, you've probably noticed that each glue gives a different result depending on the part. Cyanoacrylate works fast but it's brittle in joints that take stress, and that white stuff you mentioned is a disaster for models. What I'd recommend is having two options on hand: cyanoacrylate for small, rigid pieces where you need instant bonding, and a two-part epoxy glue for larger joints that need more strength. The epoxy takes longer to dry but the bond ends up much stronger and less visible.
Now, here's what most people don't do: before gluing anything, sand the surfaces with fine sandpaper (like 600 or 800 grit) or even wipe them with a damp cloth to get rid of shine and residue. Model plastic comes out with an almost waxy coating from the factory that keeps the glue from bonding properly. That simple step changes everything. Plus, if you want the joint to be invisible, apply the glue with a needle or a thin stick instead of the applicator that comes on the tube, so you use less and don't get drips.
For the final pieces that'll be visible, after the cyanoacrylate dries, run a little acetone with a cotton ball along the seam to clean off the white residue that almost always shows up. With this your classic cars are going to look way cleaner and more professional.
For injected plastic models (like Revell or Tamiya), the ideal is a specific plastic glue, not the instant adhesive everyone mentions. Cyanoacrylate works but tends to leave visible marks and cracks if you don't apply it with surgical precision. What really changes the game is a glue that slightly dissolves the plastic surface and fuses the pieces together, like the ones they sell in hobby shops.
Look around your area for a solvent-type plastic glue (some come in thin tubes that allow very controlled application). The advantage is that they dry clearer, almost invisible if you do it right, and the bond ends up much stronger because the plastic welds together instead of just "sticking." That said, you need patience: some take hours to cure completely but the wait is worth it. Make sure you hold the pieces well-aligned while it cures, because you don't have the instant glue's zero time but you also don't want everything moving around either.
What brand of kits are you using? Most people who build Revell or Tamiya end up mixing adhesives depending on the part: cyanoacrylate for small joints that won't experience stress, and a plastic-specific glue (like Tamiya Extra Thin) for larger ones because it holds better without breaking. What works best is applying the glue to one surface, letting it dry for a few seconds, and only then joining the pieces together - that way you have better control over placement and avoid visible seams. A trick almost nobody mentions: if you mess up with instant adhesive, a little acetone (the kind used for nail polish remover) dissolves the excess without damaging the plastic, as long as you're careful not to rub too hard.
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