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Don't just leave them loose in a closet where humidity and dust can wreck the optics and mechanics. Get yourself a dry box or cabinet with silica gel packets (swap them out when they get saturated), keep the gear in sealed bags or cases, and pop the batteries out so they don't leak and corrode everything. Check on the stuff every few months and rotate the silica gel. If your closet gets damp, that's a real problem - a small dehumidifier or moving them to a basement corner with better air flow makes a difference.

Keep them in a cool, dry place with low humidity - that's the foundation for everything else. A closet works fine if it stays stable, but ideally you want somewhere between 40-50% humidity. Moisture is your biggest enemy because it causes fungus on the lens elements and corrosion inside the camera body. If your closet gets damp or temperature swings a lot, consider a dry box or small cabinet with silica gel packets inside. Replace or dry out the silica regularly so it actually does its job.

Store everything with the lens caps on, body caps on the camera, and remove the battery. Batteries sitting in gear for months can leak and damage electronics, plus they lose charge anyway. Keep the batteries in a separate cool spot - you can always charge them before using the camera again.

For dust, those closet shelves are actually decent since they're enclosed. Just avoid storing camera gear near windows where temperature and humidity fluctuate, and don't stash it near heaters or AC vents. If you're worried about impact damage, wrap stuff loosely in a soft cloth or throw it in a padded camera bag. One more thing - pull everything out and turn it on every few months if you can. Gets the mechanics moving and helps you spot any issues early instead of discovering them when you want to use the gear again.

One thing people don't mention enough is actually removing the batteries before storage - leaving them in there, especially if you're talking months or longer, can leak and corrode the contacts, which is a pain to fix. Beyond that, silica gel and a sealed container are solid, but be honest with yourself about whether you'll actually swap out the packets regularly. If you're lazy like most people, grab a cheap electric dehumidifier for the storage space instead, or just bite the bullet and use one of those airtight cases with the replaceable desiccant cartridges that change color so you know when they're done.

If you're stashing them for a while, pull the batteries out completely - dead batteries can leak and corrode the contacts, which is way worse than just keeping them separate in a container. That alone saves you a headache down the road.

The closet isn't actually the worst spot if you're checking on things now and then - what matters more is that you stop thinking of storage as "set it and forget it." Pull those batteries, wipe the lens elements with proper microfiber cloths before packing (dust settles and scratches when you finally use them again), and honestly, even a cheap airtight container with some silica gel beats leaving them exposed to seasonal humidity swings.

Sealed storage containers with desiccant packs are really your best friend here, especially if your closet temperature swings a lot or gets humid. The silica gel packets are cheap and do the heavy lifting - just make sure you're replacing or recharging them regularly. I kept some old gear in a plastic bin with packets for about two years and opened it up to find everything in perfect shape, whereas stuff I'd left loose in the back of a closet started developing fungus on the lens elements.

Beyond the container itself, definitely pull those batteries out first. This is the thing that catches people off guard. Even decent batteries can start leaking after months of sitting, and once corrosion sets in on the contacts, you're looking at expensive repairs or replacement parts. Store the batteries separately in a cool place - you don't need anything fancy, just get them away from the gear. Also, if it's a climate-controlled spot in your house, that's ideal, but honestly even a bedroom closet with relatively stable temps beats a garage or attic where things get wild.

One last thing: crack open the containers every six months or so just to let them breathe and check that the silica packets are still working (they'll look darker when saturated). You don't need to do anything with the gear itself, just a visual inspection and a swap of the desiccant keeps everything dormant and ready to go if you ever want to use it again.

Sealed dry boxes with silica gel are really your best bet, and folks here are spot on about the battery thing - that's honestly the most common damage I've seen. What gets overlooked though is that silica gel only works if you actually swap it out regularly; if you just toss the gear in there and forget about it for two years, the gel gets saturated and stops doing anything, which defeats the purpose. Stick the batteries and memory cards in a separate airtight container away from the camera body itself, and every few months just crack open the dry box to let any trapped humidity escape for a few minutes. Your closet is fine for storage location as long as it doesn't fluctuate wildly in temperature - that matters more than people think.

Everyone's nailed the humidity and battery thing, but here's what I noticed when I dug mine out after sitting unused for ages - lens fungus sneaks up fast if there's any temperature swing between your storage spot and the outside air. A practical move is to store your lenses with the caps on but also stick them in individual microfiber pouches before they go in the dry box, then let everything come to room temperature slowly before you actually use them. That condensation gap is where fungus loves to grow, and once it's on the glass there's no quick fix. Also worth noting is to fire up the camera body every few months just to cycle the shutter and mirror - keeps the mechanics from getting sticky, which I learned the hard way when I grabbed a camera after eight months and the mirror was sluggish.

storing my old gear in a closet taught me that the real killer isn't just humidity - it's temperature swings. your lenses and sensor will be fine if the space stays relatively stable, but if your closet heats up in summer and cools down in winter, that expansion and contraction can loosen lens elements over time and fog up the internal glass. seconding the silica gel packets since those are cheap and actually work, but also throw a basic thermometer in there to track whether the temp is bouncing around a lot. if it is, maybe move your stuff to an interior closet or a shelf away from exterior walls. caps on the front and back of lenses matter too - dust settling on the rear element is annoying to clean without damaging coatings.

I've had old gear sit around for years, and the battery thing is real - corrosion from leaked alkalines will trash your camera faster than dust ever will. Beyond what's already covered about dry boxes and silica gel, here's something that actually matters: store your lenses with the caps on but remove the rear caps periodically (like every few months) and let them breathe for a couple hours, or you risk fungus growing on the internal glass elements, especially if your closet has any humidity swings. Keep batteries in a separate airtight container somewhere else entirely, not near the gear - different temperature swings won't wreck your equipment if they're isolated. If you've got rechargeable batteries, discharge them fully before storage rather than leaving them charged.

The closet approach works but you've gotta be strategic about it - throw in some airtight containers with fresh silica gel packets (swap them every few months) and your gear stays pretty safe. Definitely pull those batteries, since they're the sneakiest culprit; I learned that the hard way when an old camera I stored got corroded contacts from a leaking battery and it never worked right again. Beyond that, check on everything once every few months just to make sure nothing's gotten damp, and keep the temp swings minimal if you can - wild fluctuations between seasons are rough on electronics and optics.

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