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Two-part epoxy glue is what works best with resin. It has a longer working time compared to cyanoacrylate, which gives you space to position the pieces properly without rushing. Plus it creates a really solid bond and doesn't shrink like other glues, which matters so you don't distort the details. Mix the two components following the instructions, spread a thin layer on both surfaces and press firmly for a few minutes.

Cyanoacrylate works too, but it's trickier with resin because it dries too fast and the bond isn't always stable. If you use it anyway, apply it sparingly and keep the pieces still longer. Avoid splashing the liquid on the details because it leaves ugly white stains. If you already have cyanoacrylate at home and the pieces are small, you can give it a shot, but for a first project epoxy will make your life easier.

Use decent epoxy glue from a modeling shop, not the cheap supermarket stuff. Clean the surfaces well before gluing, best with a dry cloth. If you're unsure how glue and resin react together, do a quick test on two scrap pieces before touching the final model.

What kind of details do you have on your model? Because the answer depends on how fragile they are and how long you can wait to assemble everything.

Whoever suggested epoxy was right about working time - that's the big advantage when you're working with small, delicate pieces. But here's a detail a lot of people don't mention: resin doesn't always like epoxy. Sometimes the bond isn't perfect and the joints stay pretty weak, especially if the surfaces are well-sanded (resin is naturally non-stick). Cyanoacrylate works better on sanded resin because it creates a drier, instant bond, but you have to be fast and precise with placement - move it half a millimeter after you've glued it and you're screwed.

Practical tip: first try it on two scraps of resin to see which works better for you. If you're slow at positioning pieces, use two-part epoxy (the kind you mix right before) but rough up the surfaces with fine sandpaper so you get better adhesion. If you're confident with your hands and placement, cyanoacrylate - like regular super glue - is more reliable on resin. Avoid old-style contact cement, it doesn't work well on this material.

Elena Romano asker Small, fairly delicate details, nothing too complicated. I like the idea of testing it on scraps first, thanks for the tip.

For resin, both epoxy and cyanoacrylate work well, but there's a trick that few people know about: if you use cyanoacrylate (like Super Attak), spray a bit of talc powder or gypsum on the pieces before gluing them, so the adhesive catalyzes instantly and holds much better without creating that white haze that often ruins details.

If you'd rather have more time to position everything at your leisure, two-part epoxy is still the safest and most controllable choice, especially if your model has delicate parts where you need to be precise.

I do better with epoxy when it comes to model kits because I don't risk gluing a delicate part wrong and ending up with everything ruined in the middle of things! Cyanoacrylate is fast but if you mess up the positioning you're screwed, whereas with epoxy you have time to adjust everything before it hardens, and most importantly it doesn't leave white residue on the resin like super glue does.

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